"Back to The Future" is the name Daniel Roseberry chose for his anticipated opening at the Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture Fashion Week. The reason behind this goes beyond the feast of references to Elsa Schiaparelli's work; it also shows us a new surrealist starting point that comes with a new structuring of the firm. A visual delight in every piece.

The silhouettes presented in the first looks immerse us in Schiaparelli's new undertones: the mastery of using the female body to create a timeless fluidity enriched by anatomical cuts and textile drapes, as well as tailoring that accentuates the shoulders and waist with versatile pattern making in sleeves and shoulder pads.

The influence of surrealist artists like Salvador Dalí has always enriched Schiaparelli's history, and this time, it's no different. Daniel takes "The Eye of Time," a brooch made up of a clock-shaped eye with diamond and ruby inlays, created for his wife in 1949, to create ornaments and motifs that gave structure to four dresses and a sartorial look.

Within the versatility of "Back To The Future," we find transparencies alternating with sparkle; each look prepared you for what was presented next. On the back of an anatomically flipped 180-degree dress, a heart beat strongly. An ode to Salvador Dalí's decorated heart from 1953 stood out on the back-chest of his satin creation. Monochrome silk delineates a feminine chest and wraps the crystals that reflect the beating heart.

The dominatrix theme was persistent, and the inclusion of saddles was innovative. First, in the form of silver shoulder pads with a bullfighter theme, and then, in a deconstructed corset that perfectly outlined the model's silhouette and put her in charge (literally) of the runway.

But it wouldn't be Schiaparelli without closing with references to its beginnings. This time, Daniel Roseberry presented his version of the Apollo cape of Versailles, originally created in 1938 by Elsa, and not only presented his version but also closed with a necklace that references it and a dress that encapsulates the collection: daring surrealism.

We start this week with the engine at a thousand percent thanks to Schiaparelli. A new era is foreseen by the creative, as a restructuring of the firm is coming. With the close of this era, what surprises await us?